device features and advantages over conventional split systems


4 min 2.6k.

Inverter split systems, outwardly, do not differ from ordinary wall-mounted air conditioners, except for stickers. In fact, there are cardinal differences, but they are all inside.

Many people ask the question, what does an inverter split system mean? This concept comes from the Latin concept «inverto», which means to turn over, change. It was the change that formed the principle of operation of such compressors, which can operate at a variable speed. Thanks to this, the air conditioner has become more economical. In addition, such a split system can operate at sub-zero outdoor temperatures.


Inverter system: principle of operation and features of the device

The principle of operation of the inverter split system is to regulate the operation of the compressor depending on the air temperature in the room. When the set air parameters are reached, the compressor does not turn off, but continues to work, maintaining the temperature of the air mixture.

Thanks to these features, less noise is generated and the life of the compressor is significantly increased, as there are fewer starts. Running by itself wears it out quite a lot. The thing is that after the compressor stops, the oil in it to lubricate the rubbing parts flows into the crankcase, and when starting, the compressor works for some time in «extreme» conditions.

The principle of operation of the inverter type systemThe main device of a split-system with inverter control is a compressor. Most often it is called the «heart of the air conditioner.» Thanks to him, freon is compressed. In addition, thanks to the compressor, gas moves along a closed pipeline pipeline. But without other devices, the operation of the air conditioner is also impossible.

  1. Evaporator. It is in it that the transition of freon from a liquid state to a gaseous form occurs. In this case, the temperature of the heat exchanger itself decreases, and, accordingly, the ambient air. The evaporator is located in the indoor unit of the split system.
  2. Capacitor. In this device, the reverse process of transition from the gaseous state of freon to its liquid form takes place. During condensation, the gas gives off heat to the outdoor air masses.
  3. Throttle, or as it is also called — a throttling device. It is designed to sharply compress freon in front of the evaporator. This device is located in the indoor unit of the air conditioner.
  4. Fans. As a rule, there are two of them, one is located in the external, and the second in the internal block of the split system. They are designed to create air currents that blow over the evaporator and condenser.

There are also inverter-type multi-split systems. Their main difference from conventional air conditioners is the presence of several indoor units. They are designed to create comfortable conditions in several rooms at once. Depending on the type of multi split system, it can work perfectly with two, three, and even seven indoor units.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any climate technology, such systems have their undeniable advantages, but also some disadvantages that will be considered. Advantages:Photo: Saving electricity is one of the main benefits

  1. More accurate temperature maintenance within the specified limits, compared to conventional air conditioning.
  2. Lower noise level compared to classical type air conditioners.
  3. They cool the room much faster, since from the moment of start-up until reaching the set temperature regime they work at full capacity.
  4. It is much more economical than its classic «compatriots», due to the absence of peak loads during compressor starts.
  5. They have a longer service life. This is due to fewer compressor on/off times.
  6. Can work at rather low outside air temperature.

The disadvantages include their high cost, compared with classic air conditioners. In addition, they are very sensitive to voltage surges, so if there is such a problem in the home, care must be taken to install devices that smooth out power surges.

When Should You Buy Inverter Air Conditioning Systems?

There are several main reasons why people choose such climate technology for themselves.

  • How not to get lost among the variety of presented systems?One of the main reasons for purchasing such equipment is their increased service life. The abundance of brands, and various fakes confuse most buyers when choosing. And since the split system is already not cheap, many people prefer to overpay for an inverter about 50% of the normal cost of an air conditioner, for its reliability and durability.
  • The second reason for the purchase was the economy. It is known that inverter climate technology consumes less electricity.
  • This type of air conditioner has a significant reduction in noise levels.
    The purchase of such systems should be considered by those who are planning redevelopment in their home, in connection with which, the heat load may increase.

Inverter climate control technology is quite expensive. It certainly has its advantages and disadvantages. In some cases, such an air conditioner is simply necessary, and in some it is a waste of money, so take their purchase and installation seriously.


Do-it-yourself supply ventilation, how to do it and what you need to know


7 min 8k.

At the time of construction of most structures, through door and window cracks, and various leaks. From the moment that high-quality plastic windows, metal doors with a good seal came into our lives, the flow of air masses into houses practically stopped, which greatly affected the natural ventilation in the home in a negative direction.


It would seem that the issue can be resolved by regular ventilation, but this measure is effective only in winter, and even then not for everyone, but in summer, along with fresh air, dust, allergens, etc. enter our home. What can be done in this case, because no one wants to return to the old wooden windows? There is only one way out, to make the system in the home on your own.

What is forced ventilation

Supply air duct system

Mechanical or forced ventilation is called, created with the help of special equipment (fans), and the air flow supplied to the dwelling. It creates excess pressure in the apartment, and displaces the exhaust air that is expelled. In each room of the apartment, the air flow enters in two ways:

  1. With the help of outdoor air entry points.
  2. According to the air duct system combined into a single design.

The most effective scheme of forced ventilation of residential premises is the creation of both forced supply and mechanical exhaust ventilation at the same time. The incoming air can be heated through the use of a heat exchanger, filtered, etc. It is not difficult to make forced ventilation with your own hands, but, first of all, you need to know what it consists of.

What does mechanical ventilation consist of?

Mechanical ventilation of the home

This type of system consists of a mass of individual elements that, performing different tasks, are combined with each other.

  • Air grills. They are installed to prevent entry into various debris, small rodents and insects.
  • Air filters. They can be of various configurations and sections, but they have one purpose: cleaning the air flows entering the room from mechanical impurities.
  • Air valves are used to regulate the amount of air entering from the street and prevent cold air currents from entering the dwelling in the event of a ventilation stop.
  • Supply fans provide a constant flow and direction of air into ducts or ducts.
  • serve to reduce the noise generated by equipment and the movement of air masses.
  • Air heaters provide heating of an air stream to the necessary temperature.
  • Air ducts or channels combine all devices into a single system.
  • Automation allows you to change operating modes, control each unit, and synchronize their work.Automatic control of the ventilation system
  • Supply monoblocks. All the necessary devices are structurally combined in them. When connecting air ducts to the inlet and outlet of this equipment, you will receive supply air with the parameters you set.

Very often, mechanical supply ventilation uses equipment that equalizes pressure and distributes air flows throughout the room.

But, even knowing what the supply system consists of, it is still too early to do it yourself. First of all, you need to find out which specific type you need to install, and for this you need to find out what types of supply systems exist.

Which type to choose

  1. Combined. This is the most common type of forced ventilation in our houses and apartments. The supply fan blows air into the room and squeezes out the used air through natural exhausts. The advantages of such a system are obvious: low cost, ease of installation. Such a system does not allow foreign odors to enter the home. But there are some drawbacks, one of which is the arrangement of overflow gratings in interior doors.
  2. Supply ventilation with air cooling provides for the installation and installation of a central air conditioner in the ventilation system, but this is not done for one apartment, but for a house or a separate riser. This system also has disadvantages — this is the high cost of the refrigeration machine and automation and the large number of installed air ducts.
  3. Ventilation with heated supply air. This is quite easy to do if you install supply and exhaust ventilation with recuperation in the apartment. This device will somewhat reduce energy costs and will be able to supply warm air to the room by heating the supply air flow with the outgoing air.
  4. Air handling units with recirculation. In this case, heated supply flows will also enter the room. During recirculation, the air exhausted from the heated room is partially mixed with the cold supply air, thereby heating it. The negative side of this unit is that there are some limitations in its use. For example, in rooms where there is an explosive gas, etc.

Scheme of operation of supply and exhaust ventilation with a heat exchangerEven now, when we got acquainted with its types, it is still too early to do the supply and exhaust ventilation with our own hands. It must be properly designed and calculated.

Proper calculation is the key to stable operation

The project can be created both during the construction of the structure, and after its commissioning. It should be remembered that the project should take into account all the features of the building, the purpose of each room and their area. It should also contain precise indications of the installation locations of equipment and air ducts, as well as the calculations made for the required air exchange.

The calculation of the supply and exhaust ventilation system includes:

  • ventilation performance.
  • Required power and number of blowers.
  • The maximum possible, according to SNIP, the noise level, and the speed of the air flow through the air ducts.
  • The required section, area and material from which the air ducts must be made.
  • Type and power of additional equipment: recuperators, heaters, etc.

Using a heat exchanger

Supply system equipped with a heat exchanger

Currently, a very popular ventilation system is the supply system equipped with a heat exchanger. Indeed, the temperature in the apartment, year-round ranges from +18C to +27C. Why not use it in the supply and exhaust ventilation system. How it works?

The air coming from the outside passes through the heat exchanger, in which the warm air from the room heats the incoming cold air without mixing with each other. In the summer, everything happens on the contrary: from the apartment, the air comes out warm and is cooled by the incoming from the street. Everything is extremely simple. Recuperators are of three types:

  1. Lamellar.
  2. Rotary.
  3. with intermediate coolants.

The cheapest and, accordingly, popular is the plate heat exchanger, but, in fact, the most efficient is the rotary unit. Unlike its cheap counterpart, a rotary heat exchanger can operate at temperatures below -15C. The use of such a device allows you to save up to half of the heat or cold in the apartment, so you can significantly save on gas, electricity, on the installation of air conditioners and split systems or heaters.

Use of compact supply systems

To date, there is a compact supply ventilation, which has proven itself very well.

The installation is really small, and besides, it is energy-saving, it ensures the flow of already purified and heated (or cooled, depending on the time of year) air into the room. Inside this box there is a fan that supplies air from the street, a filter that purifies this air, a heat exchanger, the principle of operation of which we discussed above, and automation that regulates the operation of devices. The exhaust air is sucked in by the second fan, passes through the heat exchanger, where it gives off its heat (or cold) to the incoming air and is discharged outside the room. Convenient and efficient. Installing it in an apartment is extremely simple:

  • First of all, choose a place to install it.

    Experts recommend installing such systems in rooms with the greatest concentration or frequent use by people.

  • Such an installation is mounted on a facade wall, near windows, and balconies as high as possible to the ceiling. After marking, you need to punch out a hole of the appropriate diameter.
  • After you have “broke out”, start the installation with telescopic air ducts, putting on protective caps from the outside of the wall (through balconies and windows).
  • Then we make the installation of the entire installation.

As you can see, self-installation of this type of supply and exhaust ventilation is not particularly difficult, but breaking through a load-bearing wall is not so easy. Use a puncher and protective equipment for this: glasses, gloves, etc. If the work is done in a high-rise building, then it is best to involve professionals to do it.


Choosing a mobile air conditioner as an alternative to split systems


5 minutes 3.2k.

Many people are faced with the problem of creating comfortable living conditions indoors, and there is no technical possibility to install climate control equipment. How to be in such a situation? The solution was found with the creation of a mobile air conditioner that does not require special installation. It is also convenient for those who rent a room where it makes no sense to install stationary climate control equipment. Let’s take a closer look at this device.


What is mobile air conditioning

A mobile air conditioner, the principle of operation consists of a housing that houses all the devices necessary for its autonomous operation. If compared with the classic split system, then in it both the indoor and outdoor units are in the same building. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage at the same time.

Its main advantages are:

  • Lack of installation, or rather, almost no preparatory work during its installation. In order for this air conditioner to function, a special corrugated hose will have to be taken outside.
  • When installing it, no approvals are required, especially if the premises are rented.

The entire installation comes down to the output of the corrugated hose to the streetHere, as it were, are all its virtues. The disadvantages of this air conditioner should be looked at very carefully, because despite the average cost of this climate technology, the purchase is not made for one day. The disadvantages are:

  • Increased noise level, because the compressor and fans are in the room, which means you can hear their work well.
  • Not the most convenient in this air conditioner is getting rid of condensate, which inevitably appears when air meets a cooled evaporator. Condensate is discharged into a special container, which should be emptied regularly.
  • To remove hot air, a special corrugated duct is used, which is more like a hose. By extracting hot air, it heats up itself, increasing the heat load and creating a unique situation when, while cooling the room, the air conditioner heats it up.
  • A mobile monoblock air conditioner occupies the living space, «shamelessly taking» it from those present.

This is only a list of the main inconveniences that appear in a home when buying such a unit.

How mobile air conditioner works, internal device

The principle of operation of a portable air conditioner for the home is no different from the classic monoblock air conditioner.

  1. The main structural elements of a mobile air conditionerThe compressor compresses the freon, which enters the condenser, where it turns into a liquid state and releases the accumulated heat into the air.
  2. The heated air is expelled outside the room through the duct.
  3. After that, the already liquefied freon is fed into the throttling device, where the gas pressure increases sharply, at which it boils at room temperature.
  4. In the evaporator, boiling freon passes from a liquid state to a gaseous state, releasing cold during this process.
  5. The fan drives the airflow through the cooled evaporator, thereby cooling the ambient air in the room.

If you notice that in addition to supplying heated air to a special duct, there is no difference from the operation of a conventional air conditioner. But there is a design that looks like a split system, but in reality is a mobile air conditioner.

A mobile split system is a kind of exotic symbiosis that combines all the advantages of mobile climate control equipment and a split system. It, as it should be for classic split systems, is divided into two blocks, compressor and evaporative. The main difference between such a system is that the compressor unit is not taken out into the street, but is also installed indoors, but away from human ears. This arrangement prevents one of the main drawbacks of monoblocks — an increased noise level.

Another difference from classical climate technology is the removal of hot air and condensate drainage. In classic air conditioners, heated air is removed from the condenser due to its “outdoor” location, and in the mobile version of the split system, it is discharged through a flexible duct, which, in turn, is discharged to the street.

Split systems also differ in freon lines. If in classical climate systems the external and internal blocks are interconnected by copper, rigid pipes, then in mobile, wall-mounted or more often floor split systems, the blocks are connected by flexible main pipes.

Such climate technology is quite popular in Old Europe, but in our country it is not yet of much interest to buyers.

Mobile air conditioner without air, myth or reality

In fact, some modern manufacturers have begun to produce what is known as a «ductless mobile air conditioner», claiming that this is the optimal solution for those who are really interested in «hassle-free» mobility. Let’s analyze this design and find out if it is really so convenient, or is it just another marketing ploy.

As a working composition, in such a device, instead of a refrigerant, … is used. water! Water, soaking into a special filter, is intensively blown by air currents created by a fan. From the school course of physics, everyone knows that when moisture evaporates, a cooling process occurs. In such an air conditioner, a filter is cooled, from which moisture evaporates, and of the surrounding air. But with this principle of operation of a floor air conditioner without an air duct, two questions immediately arise: where does the evaporating moisture go and how well can a cold filter cool the surrounding air?

The answer is painfully simple: evaporating moisture does not go anywhere, but remains in the air. A cooled filter, even of a large area, can only cool the air in the immediate vicinity of the device. Even jets of cool air can provide temporary relief from the heat only when directed directly at you. We very much doubt that this will bring any comfort to many.

The shape of an air conditioner without air is no different from a mobile one. Such a device would be best called a humidifier, or an air purifier with a humidification function, but not an air conditioner.

A particular inconvenience arises when using this device, because for its operation you must always monitor the water level and have, just in case, another device called a dehumidifier, which will extract excess moisture resulting from the operation of such an air conditioner from the air of the home.

If you really move quite often or for some reason cannot install a split system, then pay attention to modern monoblock models of mobile air conditioners.


The ventilation in the apartment does not work


4 min 2.5k.

In normal times, ventilation, in fact, is a rather inconspicuous system in the house, and rarely anyone remembers about it during use. However, if it stops working, then it will immediately become clear — a bad smell, smoke will appear in the apartment, windows will start to fog up and other unpleasant phenomena will appear. In addition, the lack of sufficient ventilation can lead to the accumulation of moisture and the appearance of fungi, so this problem must be addressed. If there is no ventilation in the apartment, what to do in this case? First, you need to check whether the problem is really in this system, and not in some other factors.

Do-it-yourself ventilation check

If the ventilation in the apartment does not work, where should I go with this issue? First you need to make sure that the system is really not working before disturbing various organizations. This can be done quickly enough without using any special devices:

  • One of the methods is carried out in this way: you need to open windows or a window 5-8 cm, and also open the doors so that a free flow of air is formed in the room. After that, take a small piece of plain paper and attach it to the vent. If it is attracted and does not fall, then everything is in order with the system and it works.
  • Sometimes a lighter is used to check — if there is a draft, then the flame will deviate towards the hole. However, experts do not recommend doing this in order to avoid accidents. The fact is that gas can accumulate in the mine, which will explode when it collides with fire. Therefore, it is better to use the method with a piece of paper — it is safer.

Tip: it is worth considering that sometimes in hot weather the air can stagnate, so there will be no thrust, despite the fact that the system itself is working. It is recommended to check all the openings that are in the apartment. Usually they are in the kitchen and bathroom.

Self-checking of general house ventilation

What should be the ventilation?

To fully ensure ventilation, it is necessary to observe certain norms when creating a system. Most often, natural ventilation is used, which consists of branched channels leading to each apartment. In the room, the openings of these channels are covered with a grate. With the help of different temperatures outside the window and inside, as well as pressure and wind strength, natural ventilation is formed.

The full operation of this system is calculated even when designing a house, using the multiplicity method. According to the norms, 60 cubic meters should fall on one tenant. The apartment must have several ventilation ducts.Cleaning the common house channel

What could be the reason and where should I go?

If it turns out that the ventilation in the apartment is not working properly, where to go? It all depends on what is the cause of the problem:

  • Sometimes people, making repairs, can somehow block the ventilation for other residents. In this case, the law provides for a fine, and the correction of the error can be achieved through the court if the apartment owners do not want to do it voluntarily. The most common culprit is debris that clogs the channels, preventing air from getting in and out. In this case, you need to get rid of the blockage.
  • If you need to clean the ventilation in the apartment, where to go? This problem must be dealt with by the management company that is directly involved in this house. You will need to leave a request in writing or by phone, and on the appointed day, specialists will clean the mine with the help of a load.
  • The problem may lie in the plastic windows. This is especially true of older houses that were designed to use ventilation with wooden structures. Plastic ones turned out to be so tight that air simply cannot circulate normally. In this case, it is necessary to equip special valves for air outflow. In this regard, you can contact the company that installed the windows in the apartment. You can solve the problem by regular ventilation.

Regardless of the source of the problem, it will need to be addressed, since ventilation affects the health of the people living in the apartment, as well as the condition of the room itself.


How to make a screen for an air conditioner yourself


5 minutes 6k.

The screen for the air conditioner is a kind of air flow reflector. As a rule, the flow of cooled air from the indoor unit of the split system exits at 45 ° to the floor level. The reflector redirects the flow of cold air and lets it parallel to the ceiling, like in expensive ceiling-mounted climate control equipment.


There are many designs of this unit: cheaper ones are rigidly attached to the wall and direct the cooled air flows in only one direction. More expensive ones have adjustable airflow reflection angle. But despite the diverse design of reflectors for air conditioners, they all perform the same function, differing only in design, mounting method, and the presence of a movable “curtain”.

Many companies specializing in the sale of screens for air conditioners offer miraculous devices with «special aerodynamics». It’s a lie! The functions of the reflectors include only the redirection of the air flow, and its uniform distribution depends on many factors: the layout of the room, the location of the furniture, etc.

Screen material

Most often, the material for the manufacture of a reflector for an air conditioner is organic glass or acrylic. The transparent screen looks quite stylish and is almost invisible against the background of the wall and the indoor unit of the air conditioner. It can be easily decorated with a certain color or, for example, with artificial greenery.

On the left is a plastic screen, in the center is a Plexiglas screen for a non-wall unit, on the right - for a cassette air conditionerA large number of options for corrugated board reflectors have appeared on the Internet. The natural humidity of the air in the room can quickly destroy this device, so it is worth choosing a reflector from materials that are not affected by moisture. Do not forget about the need for periodic wet cleaning of air conditioner screens.

Reflector for «cassette»

Although a cassette air conditioner is usually mounted in the center of the room and can distribute cool air to all four sides, the cold masses of air sink too quickly and do not move along the ceiling. In this case, it is impossible to be directly under the block of such a climatic device without harm to health.

And if in the lobby of a hotel or in a large shop, a person is not constantly in close proximity to the cold air flow, then the workplace in the office or the seat of the viewer in the cinema cannot be moved. In this case, screens for ceiling air conditioners will also come to the rescue.

It looks like a screen for a cassette air conditionerIt is a sheet of plexiglass, with edges slightly bent upwards, which is attached to the ceiling with adjustable or stationary racks. Some manufacturers make quick-release mounts specifically for suspended ceilings. This is the most convenient option for the possibility of periodic maintenance of equipment.

How to make a reflector with your own hands

Many manufacturers of climate technology offer a screen for air conditioning already in the «basic configuration». When buying split systems of some brands, the screen is attached as a free option or is already included in its price. But for many models of air conditioners, screens are sold as an additional device, which, despite the simplicity of design, has a rather impressive cost.

If you are unlucky and have not been offered a protective reflective screen as a free application to your climate device, then you have two options:

  1. Do not be upset and buy it by spending from your own wallet from 2000 to 4000 rubles.
  2. Do not get upset and do it yourself, spending a maximum of 1000 rubles and two hours of free time on it.

Despite the apparent complexity, making a wonderful reflector for an air conditioner will not be difficult for any home craftsman. We offer to make it from organic glass, as well as a factory-made screen.

Screen layout for a wall-mounted air conditioner, which you can make yourselfTo do this, you will need material: a square piece of plexiglass, with sides larger than your indoor unit by 20 cm, a drill and a drill with a diameter of 4-5 mm, two chrome-plated washers with an inner diameter of 4-5 mm, two self-tapping screws, a curly screwdriver, a ruler or a flat wooden rail and a regular hair dryer (you can use a building one).

  1. We make a pattern. On one side of the sheet we measure 25-30 cm and draw a strip. This will be the screen mount that will be screwed directly to the wall.
  2. Set aside 8 cm from the side adjacent to the marking made and draw the strip until it intersects with the already measured fastening strip.
  3. Do the same on the opposite side. The result should be a sheet of Plexiglas with a mark of 25-30 cm along one side, and two marks on the adjacent sides of 8 cm, drawn to the intersection with the fastening line.
  4. Now, using a metal file, make cuts along the lines from the edge of the sheet to the intersection with the fold lines. The cut will be 8 cm long.
  5. After that, we begin to bend the screen pattern. To do this, lay the pattern on the edge of the table so that the fold line that you set aside 25-30 cm is flush with the edge of the table, and the rest hangs freely.
  6. We begin to heat the fold line with a hairdryer. Make sure that the plexiglass does not melt under the jet of hot air. With sufficient heating, the workpiece under its own weight will begin to bend.
  7. Put a ruler on its edge, and slightly pressing down, continue warming up to an even bend of 45-50 °
    After that, you should get a bent workpiece, on the fold line of which cuts of 8 cm are made.
  8. Lay the workpiece on the edge of the table so that the fastening strip faces up and the marked 8 cm strip hangs from the edge of the table. Heat with a hair dryer along the fold line. The strip must be bent at least 45°.
  9. Field perform the same procedure on the other side of the workpiece.
  10. Now it remains to drill holes in the mount of the finished screen and fix the entire structure to the wall.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated and scary in making a screen for an air conditioner, and if everything is done carefully, then it will not differ in any way from its expensive purchased counterparts. It is even easier to make a screen for a ceiling air conditioner by screwing racks around the edges of a sheet of organic glass and fixing the structure to the ceiling.


How to make a Grigorovich deflector with your own hands


5 minutes 6.4k.

Good traction is the key to the normal operation of the stove in a private house. If the draft is insufficient, then the fire will not flare up properly, respectively, it will not be possible to heat the room. In summer, the chimney can also perform the function, thanks to the installed deflector, which will draw air out. Devices of this type can be bought or made independently. It is not difficult, the main thing is to have the necessary tools and materials. The easiest way is to make a Volpert-Grigorovich deflector according to the drawings. It has a cone-shaped tip and has a fairly high efficiency.

  1. Device design
  2. Step-by-step instructions for creating a Grigorovich deflector

Grigorovich deflector diagram

Device design

Deflectors are actively used in industry, but the owners of private houses do not always install them, although this could solve problems with draft and ventilation. There are various types of these devices, they differ in their shape. The Grigorovich deflector is easily recognizable by its cone-shaped outlines, and among other similar devices, it is considered the most effective. In addition, doing Grigorovich with your own hands is not so difficult, so you should try using this method to improve ventilation performance. In total, it has three parts, which are fastened together during manufacture:

  • Diffuser.
  • Lid.
  • Reverse cone.

Under the protective visor there is a reverse cone, which ensures the full operation of the device even in low winds. But also its presence allows us to limit ourselves to simple, which facilitates the manufacturing process. The deflector works according to the principles of the laws of aerodynamics, interacting with air flows. Its presence avoids the need to install a long pipe to provide better traction. The deflector is also able to increase the heating efficiency, with its use the combustion process is much more active.

Expert opinion

Ask an expert

Tip: you can not use the deflector if the room is heated with a gas boiler. A similar requirement is indicated in SNIP and is mandatory for residential premises.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a Grigorovich deflector

You can make a Grigorovich deflector for a chimney with your own hands according to the drawings. To do this, you need to select the right materials, but first of all, you will need to make calculations so that the device does its job correctly. The main indicator that matters is the cross section of the pipe on which the device will be installed. Knowing this information, it will be possible to calculate the rest of the data. The deflector must match the size of the pipe in order to be installed.

simplified drawing-pattern

After the calculations, you can draw a drawing on paper. This step is optional, but allows you to get a preliminary layout that will help you avoid errors and inaccuracies. With it, you can try on the location of the elements and make sure that everything is correctly calculated. Creating a layout does not take much time, so do not skip this stage, it will allow you to evaluate your product and, if necessary, make adjustments.

The material can be stainless steel or galvanized. It is well suited for the manufacture of such a device, since it is sufficiently durable and will not bend when it collides with air currents. And the steel is also weather resistant, so it won’t rust from contact with rain and snow.

For the manufacture of the deflector, metal sheets are usually used, on which it is necessary to transfer the drawings of the blanks. They are cut out with special scissors for metal, and then fastened using brackets. When the parts are ready, they are interconnected, after which it is installed on the pipe.
To attach the cone to the protective cap, it is not necessary to use mounting bolts or other elements, there is an easier way that can be applied.

  1. Two parts must be attached to each other as they will be in the connected form.
  2. Draw a contour on the back of the lid and then make cuts along the line.
  3. Insert the cone and bend the strips so that they hold it.

These elements are attached to the diffuser using construction studs, although other types of fasteners can also be used. Brackets are installed on the inside of the diffuser, which are used to the pipe. There must be at least four of them.

Grigorovich deflector structure

Mounting the deflector is a rather complicated process, since it is carried out at a height and requires compliance with appropriate safety measures. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the implementation of such work.

  • To install the fixture, you need to make indents of at least 150 mm from the edge of the chimney pipe, indicating this with marks.
  • Then they try on the deflector, fully assembled and ready for installation.
  • Holes are drilled in the pipe and fasteners, the structure is fixed with the help of special elements.

Although the baffle is made of dense sheet steel, care must be taken during installation to avoid accidental damage to the diffuser, otherwise this will cause the device to not work effectively.

The manufacture of the structure and its installation does not take much time, but it is real. Even with a slight wind, it will be noticeably felt and increase as the furnace warms up. In this case, the combustion process will be much more active. In addition, the deflector protects the chimney from clogging, preventing debris from getting inside.


We install floor-to-ceiling air conditioner in the office


4 min 2.6k.

There are buildings in which it is impossible to install air conditioning. It is not paradoxical, but if the building consists of glass and concrete, then it is not possible to install an air conditioner in its wall. As well as in buildings that are of historical value, no one will allow to hammer the walls. So what to do in such a situation? The output was a floor-ceiling split system, which allows you to effectively solve this problem.


Floor and ceiling split systems are designed to create a comfortable microclimate in a room where it is structurally impossible to install other air conditioning systems. They consist of two blocks, like wall-mounted household split systems. Their main difference is that the indoor unit is attached either to the ceiling or installed on the floor near the wall. Thus, the walls of the room remain unused.

The outdoor unit is mounted outside the building, and the indoor unit can be located near the wall, while the flow of cooled or heated air will be directed upwards, along the wall and along the floor. If the indoor unit is mounted on the ceiling, the airflow will be directed along the ceiling and towards the floor. This is convenient, since the air flows are evenly distributed throughout the room, without forming stagnant zones.

Device floor-ceiling climate system

The outdoor unit consists of the following main devices:

  • Frame. The case of floor-to-ceiling conditioner is made of the metal covered with anticorrosive structure.
  • compressor. This device is the heart of the entire air conditioner. Thanks to him, freon is compressed and pumped through the main pipeline.
  • condenser heat exchanger. This device is a radiator, where the gaseous hot freon cools down, giving off heat to the outside air, and turns into a liquid form.
  • A fan that blows around the condenser, causing it to lower the temperature of the freon and taking away its heat.

Classic split systemThe outdoor unit is connected to the indoor piping system, which forms a closed circuit. The indoor unit of the floor-to-ceiling air conditioner consists of:

  • Evaporator. In this device, which looks like a radiator, the refrigerant boils and evaporates, which, evaporating, cools the evaporator heat exchanger.
  • Fan. It by blowing the heat exchanger delivers the cooled air stream to the room.
  • capillary tube. This is a very important device in which freon pressure drops and, as a result, its temperature rises before it enters the evaporator.
  • Control boards.
  • Coarse air filter from mechanical inclusions. It effectively cleans the air stream from dust, fluff and hair, animal hair, etc.
  • Enclosures with louvered airflow guides.

This is a standard equipment for a floor-to-ceiling split system. But it can be, depending on the purpose, equipped with additional filter elements that will effectively destroy various bacteria, absorb unpleasant odors and deodorize the air.

Where are split systems used?

I would especially like to highlight the ceiling location of the indoor unit, as the most common installation option.

Ceiling split systems have a sufficiently high power, so it is advisable to install them in large rooms, such as shops, with a glazed facade. In addition, they are often installed in office premises, with walls filled with various racks.

Air conditioners of this type can be mounted both on the wall near the floor and under the ceiling.Modern manufacturers of ceiling air conditioners have recently begun to produce more compact and low-power climate equipment, which has begun to take root remarkably in residential premises. By supplying cold air from above, greater efficiency is achieved, thereby creating the possibility of saving energy.

Built-in ceiling air conditioner, the latest generation, which can supply air flows in different directions, is perfect for working in rooms with complex architecture. Such climate systems will be appropriate in any place where there are no false ceilings in order to install a «cassette» or channel-type split system.

Advantages and disadvantages of this technique

The main advantages of floor-to-ceiling climate control equipment include:

  • Their functionality. Most of these split systems are equipped with several fan speeds, remote control, room ventilation mode, night mode, heating, etc.
  • High power. Thanks to this, such air conditioners can be used in rooms with an area of ​​​​about 100 sq.m.
  • The flat shape of the indoor unit, due to which it practically does not use the space of the room.
  • Ease of installation.
  • The floor-ceiling type split system does not create drafts, therefore it can be used in rooms with a large crowd of people.

The main, and probably the only drawback of such a climate system is its rather high cost. It is because of this that they are not as common as conventional household split systems.

When installing a floor-to-ceiling air conditioning system, the problem of how to hide the pipeline becomes important. This requires chasing the ceiling, so all installation work should be entrusted to professionals.


Reverse draft in the chimney — causes and solutions


6 min 9.8k.

The directional movement of combustion products along the flue ducts is a fundamental factor for the efficient and safe operation of almost all heating devices. There is a movement of air masses in the chimney with a difference in pressure, temperature and density between the air in the chimney and the atmosphere. The warm air in the chimney has a lower density and tends to rise, and colder air masses take its place.

But there is such a thing as The manifestation of this effect is immediately visible to the naked eye — the smoke from the combustion of fuel does not come out as it should be in the chimney, but moves into the room, which creates the danger of poisoning a person with combustion products and carbon monoxide. Why there is a reverse draft in the chimney and how to deal with this phenomenon, we will consider in this publication.


Reasons for this phenomenon

Reverse thrust, as it became clear from the above, there is a consequence, a . And above all, the main reason for poor draft in the chimney, and, accordingly, the appearance of this effect, is the incorrect design of the heating system and non-compliance with the rules for the use of building materials for arranging the smoke exhaust system. Among other reasons, the most common are:

  • Banal clogging of the chimney.
  • Incorrect calculation of the cross section of the chimney.
  • Failure to comply with the height of the smoke exhaust system.
  • The presence of horizontal and narrow sections in the smoke ducts.
  • The location of the chimney in the zone of «wind backwater».
  • Improperly organized and insufficient supply air.

But it often happens that the phenomenon of reverse thrust occurs suddenly, on previously normally working equipment. This may be due to adverse weather conditions such as strong winds, fog, or high outdoor temperatures during the summer. Each of these reasons is able to reverse the direction of movement of combustion products, thereby stopping the normal process of smoke removal from heating devices.

How to determine insufficient draft in the chimney system

If the reverse draft is visible to the naked eye, then poor draft in the chimney should be determined, and this must be done before each start of the heating appliances. To do this, several basic methods are used.

  1. Measuring the speed of air flow with a special device. Such a device is called an anemometer. Normal, thrust is considered when the device reads from 10 to 20 Pa. An excellent means of measuring the movement of air flows, only the device is very expensive. In addition, an anemometer can show the movement of air, but it is almost impossible to determine the direction by it, and even at a speed of less than 1 m / s.Portable anemometer for measuring the speed of air masses
  2. Banal observation of the appearance of smoke in the room. If there is smoke, then there is no traction or it is insufficient. This method can be used in solid fuel heaters. In heating systems equipped with , it may not work. Although modern systems have many degrees of protection. Smoke sensors are one of the components of the security system on heating boilers.
  3. If a stove or fireplace is used to heat the room, then the presence of air movement and its direction can be determined using smoke from a smoldering cigarette or candle flame. If the smoke brought to the firebox enters the chimney, then there is movement in the right direction. Also with a candle flame, if the flame deviates towards the smoke outlet, then the system works, but how strong it can be determined only with special devices.

If the draft in the chimney suddenly disappears, then, first of all, the cause of what is happening should be determined. A visual inspection of the flue duct is the first thing to do. Often, you just need to clean the chimney, and the effect of reverse draft in it will disappear.

Back draft and ventilation

Many users of stoves and fireplaces, especially after repairs in the house, say that: “There was a reverse draft in the chimney, what to do about it.” Everyone is immediately interested in solving the problem, but few people thought why it was after the repair in the room that this phenomenon appeared.

Very often, the effect reverse thrust appears precisely in houses with installed plastic windows and high-quality doors. Most often, when replacing windows and doors, the owners of the premises do not think that after such alterations

Oddly enough, the appearance of this effect is directly related to ventilation, or rather, to its absence. Warm air has a lower density and therefore tends to rise. Warmed up in the heater, air masses rise through the chimney, and colder air rushes to its place. But in the process of work, it may happen that a low-pressure area will gradually appear in the sealed room and the vacuum will become so strong that it will begin to draw fresh air from the chimney, “overturning the draft”, and turning the movement of smoke in the opposite direction. The better the draft in the chimney, the longer the effect of the reverse movement of combustion products will not be, but without a sufficient amount of supply air, this process is inevitable.

Supply valves.  Left - wall, right - for plastic windowsIn order to solve this problem, it is necessary to organize the flow of air masses from the street. This can be solved in several ways:

Each of these measures will contribute to the penetration of outdoor air masses into the house, preventing a decrease in pressure in the room and the formation of a reverse draft effect. Which method to choose, it is best to consult a specialist.

Ways to improve the removal of combustion products

Keep in mind that even with the best ventilation system, smoke extraction will be ineffective if the flue ducts are clogged or improperly designed. With the wrong project, there is only one way to deal with it, disassembling the chimney and completely reworking it.

If there is a defect in the flue ducts that reduces the removal of combustion products, several devices can be used to improve this process.

  • . The principle of its operation is to create a low pressure area above the chimney, due to the flow of air masses around the device. There are many types of such devices. They should be selected based on the diameter of the chimney and wind load. It should be understood that the deflector is effective only in the presence of wind. In calm weather, this device is practically useless.A deflector and a rotary turbine will help increase the draft in the chimney
  • Insufficient height of the flue pipe. It is possible to significantly increase the exhaust of combustion products in the smoke exhaust channel by increasing it in such a way that its height from the grate to the head is 5-7 m.
  • Having mounted a rotary turbine on the chimney. This device greatly enhances the extraction of smoke, creating a vacuum by spinning the turbine, which uses wind energy for this.

Backdraft is a very dangerous phenomenon, and not only by the appearance of carbon monoxide in the living room, but also by sparking directed into the room. At the first manifestations of this effect, you should stop using the stove or fireplace, try to determine and eliminate the cause yourself, and if this does not give a positive result, immediately contact the specialists.


Siphon for draining the air conditioner — a choice of 3 varieties


4 min 11.5k.

An air conditioner siphon is a device that is necessary to remove condensate directly into the sewer system. This device works on the principle of a water seal, passing liquid and air in only one direction. effectively copes with the task, without letting unpleasant odors into the home.


A water seal in such a drainage unit is formed by filling with water a jumper located in the lower part of the device and connecting two communicating vertical parts of the pipeline. There is always water in the siphon lintel, which does not allow odors from the sewer system to pass through.

Main types and design features

The classic siphon can be seen under every sink located in the kitchen of our apartment. It can certainly be used to drain the drainage water from the split system into the sewer, but the device is too bulky and takes up a lot of space. That is why many manufacturers of such devices have taken the path of reducing their dimensions, due to which the following types of devices have been developed:

  1. for air conditioner condensate, has a U-shape. The elbow connecting the inlet and outlet of this device plays the role of a water seal. The device is easy to install and maintain, but has several serious drawbacks: water in the knee can evaporate with irregular use of climate technology, and unpleasant odors can enter the room. The second drawback is that such a drainage unit takes up a lot of space. As a rule, it is installed in specially prepared wall niches, covered with decorative panels.U-trap
  2. Siphon with water trap and mechanical ball valve that prevents odors from the sewer system from entering the room. This type of fixture can be used both for external installation and for internal (built into the wall) location. The ball valve opens due to the pressure of the drain water on it. When the flow decreases, the valve closes the outlet to the sewerage system, preventing the movement of fecal water in the opposite direction.Siphon with ball valve

    A feature of such units is the presence of a cleaning-collector in their design. The ball valve prevents the movement of water and unpleasant odors.

  3. For concealed installation (installation into the wall), box models with a ball float valve as a locking mechanism are most often used. The ball valve pops up when condensate enters the device, allowing water to pass freely into the sewer.Box version of the siphon

When the circulation of water in the device stops, the float, under its own weight, blocks the drainage channel, creating a barrier to the penetration of odors from the sewer system. The float siphon for the air conditioner, with its small dimensions, completely replaces the standard U-shaped drainage device. The box-type drainage units have a replaceable cassette, which, if dirty, can be changed or cleaned independently. The cassette is made of transparent plastic, which makes it possible to control its degree of contamination.

Features of choice

To date The most popular models of ball siphons for air conditioners are products of the Austrian company Hutterer & Lechner. Of the variety of models present on the domestic market of climate technology, the siphon models HL136, HL138, HL21 have become especially in demand. The design features of these models, under certain operating conditions, allow the use of a self-cleaning function, which makes their maintenance as simple as possible.Siphon model for concealed installation

What you need to know before buying

  • Required outlet diameter.
  • throughput of the device.
  • Depth of the device (for flush-mounted models).


In connection with the considerable, in modern times, cost, from 1.5 to 2 thousand rubles. many owners of air conditioners are wondering: how to make a siphon for an air conditioner?

The experts of our company answer such questions unambiguously: It is quite difficult to make a device with a check valve without special equipment.

At home, you can make an ordinary U-shaped structure out of a plumbing pipe, but after some time of inactivity of your climate control equipment, the water from the knee of the water seal will evaporate and your apartment will be filled with “wonderful aromas” of the sewer. In addition, the drainage unit, which can be made from improvised means, will be quite bulky and difficulties will certainly arise during its installation.

Cheaper or homemade siphon analogues often cause an unpleasant odor to spread. You should not save on a siphon for an air conditioner. Against odor, you should choose devices with a mechanical ball valve.


Installation of supply and exhaust ventilation: independent work, main stages


7 min 2.8k.

Very often we have to talk about the need for high-quality ventilation, as many still do not understand its importance in ensuring a good microclimate at home, apartment or any individual room. The absence of such will necessarily affect the well-being of the residents and the state of the structure of the building itself. This article will be about the need for ventilation. In addition, we will definitely touch on the topic of its proper operation and, of course, learn how to install it without the help of professionals. But to do this, several questions need to be considered.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system

Any ventilation system provides for air exchange, i.e. one air replaces another. The air that leaves the room is called exhaust air, and the one that replaces it is called supply air. The air masses in the house are heated in the process of human activity and the operation of heating appliances. According to physical laws, heated air becomes lighter, therefore it rises, and colder air is located in the lower part of the room. After that, the cold one again heats up and rises, and the colder one takes its place. And so on ad infinitum.

Warm air in the upper part of the room finds a hole called a hood, getting into it, it is drawn out through the duct and out of the house. But something must fill the void, and then supply air flows appear, which are colder and located at the bottom of the room. And where do they come from? There are several ways: through loosely closed doors, through window slots or air inlets. This circulation has its own name — natural ventilation, which was originally equipped in our apartments, industrial premises, etc.

Choosing a ventilation system

But in order to install ventilation, this knowledge is not enough, you need to choose the most suitable ventilation system scheme for your home. There are actually only two of them:

  1. Natural.
  2. Forced.
  3. There is also an intermediate option called combined ventilation.

For all its simplicity, natural ventilation has several limitations and disadvantages:

  • Atmospheric phenomena greatly influence the efficiency of the natural ventilation system. It should be warm inside and cold outside. The concepts of heat and cold are somewhat exaggerated, but the essence remains the same: it should be warmer in the rooms than on the street.
  • To remove the exhaust air, a vertical, direct ventilation shaft is needed. In the event that it is not vertical, or it is not there, then there will be no draft in the channel, which means how warm air will be drawn into it?

A pair of fans will be enough for efficient air circulationForced ventilation does not have such restrictions, so it looks more attractive. For its arrangement, you only need a couple of fans that will work, one for air exhaust, and the other for its inflow. For their work, only electricity will be needed, and even then a little.

Now that we know about the two main ventilation systems, it’s still too early to start installation. The next step will be design and calculation.

Design and calculation

If we decide that we will do forced ventilation in our house, let’s choose its type, and there are several of them, and each has both advantages and disadvantages.

  • Supply. The extract air will work as usual, and the air will be supplied through the supply fan.
  • Supply and exhaust. Both extract and supply will work with the help of fans installed in the air ducts.
  • Exhaust. If the supply of fresh air in your house is organized well, then the hood can be equipped with an exhaust fan.

The design of any type of ventilation system must begin with an accurate calculation of the equipment. In addition, you need to calculate on paper how many meters of the exhaust pipe for ventilation you will need to remove the exhaust air, accurately calculate the required diameter of the air ducts and the number of meters of the pipe for the inflow of fresh air, and draw the location of the devices of your future ventilation system.

What are the criteria for the calculation. There are special tables and methods for this, but for a simpler calculation, you can use a simplified system. To calculate the power of the exhaust fan, you need to multiply the volume of the room by 12.

The volume of the room where the hood will be located is 20 cubic meters. We multiply by 12 and get 240 cubic meters / hour.

To calculate the power of the supply fan, you need to know that at least 3 cubic meters per hour per 1 m2 of area must be supplied to residential premises. We multiply the area of ​​u200bu200bthe room by 3 and get the approximate performance of the supply fan that we need.

Even now, when you have learned about the rules for calculating equipment and design, it is still too early to start installing the supply and exhaust ventilation.

What are the costs of ventilation

Let's calculate the necessary costsIn order to approximately represent how much hard-earned money will need to be spent on arranging ventilation, several factors must be taken into account:

  • Room dimensions.
  • The number of people living.
  • Appointment of premises.

Even these minor factors will help you figure out how much investment you need. Please note that the amount can increase by an order of magnitude if you invite a specialist for installation.

Features of installation work

  • To equip ventilation, you will need ventilation pipes. They are plastic round or rectangular and galvanized round and rectangular. For self-assembly, it is better to choose round PVC pipes. They are lighter, easier to mount, they have a large selection of all kinds of angles, tees, etc.
  • Ventilation ducts require fastening to walls and ceilings. For this, special clamps or clamping strips were invented.
  • During the operation of the ventilation system, you will encounter such a problem as the appearance of condensate inside the channels. It is necessary to immediately provide for the manufacture of a device for collecting condensate, which, as a rule, is taken out into the street.
  • If you do the installation of ventilation with your own hands and in the process of work you are faced with the need to lay horizontal ventilation ducts, then consider immediately installing fans in them.
  • In order for the air flow to move in the right direction, consider installing check valves. These inexpensive devices will prevent air from flowing from one room to another.

We do the installation step by step

We learned everything that was needed for work, and now you can proceed to the long-awaited stage of installing the ventilation system of your private house. Of course, you can invite a team of professionals for this, but an independent device has its own charms. You will do what you want and in the time you want. In addition, you will thoroughly know every centimeter, and save a little money, which is always nice!

  1. We prepare the necessary tools and determine the scope of work.

    Think over all the nuances in advance so that you do not have to redo it later.

  2. Markup must beWe make markings in each room. Supply pipes should be located 50 cm from the floor, and exhaust pipes 10-30 cm below the ceiling.
  3. We install a fan in each pipe. The fan should not be 1-2 cm in diameter less than the diameter of the pipe.
  4. According to the marks, we drill holes in the walls for the pipe. They should be a couple of centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipes.
  5. Thoroughly clean surfaces of debris.
  6. We install the fan in the pipe, fasten it well with standard fasteners and mount the pipe in the prepared hole. We do this with all ventilation equipment.
  7. The gap between the pipe and the wall is filled with mounting foam.

After 12 hours (the foam dries), you can move on to scraping the walls for wiring and switch boxes. After connecting all the elements of the wiring, lay it in the grooves and fix it with brackets. After that, you can move on to decorative elements, namely, puttying recesses in the wall for wiring, connecting switches, etc.

At the end of each pipe you need to put on a decorative grille.

Now you understand how complex and important the ventilation system in the house is. Following our tips, you can easily equip the simplest supply and exhaust ventilation with your own hands.