The prin­ci­ple of oper­a­tion of an air con­di­tion­er, and indeed of any oth­er evap­o­ra­tive type refrig­er­a­tion machine, is based on the phys­i­cal prop­er­ty of a gas (or an eas­i­ly evap­o­rat­ing liq­uid such as fre­on, ammo­nia) to cool its vol­ume with a sharp expan­sion. This process con­struc­tive­ly takes place in a spe­cial evap­o­ra­tion cham­ber, which cools the air.

At the same time, anoth­er phe­nom­e­non of physics comes into play, more com­mon­ly known as “reach­ing the dew point”. In nature, this looks like the appear­ance of tiny dew drops on a cold sur­face and is called con­den­sate.

In fact, it is a by-prod­uct of the oper­a­tion of the air con­di­tion­er and, in order to ensure the nor­mal func­tion­ing of the device, it needs to be removed from

Where does the condensate come from and where does it go?

Where it comes from has already been described a few para­graphs ear­li­er and now we will reveal the top­ic of con­den­sate removal from the air con­di­tion­er and why it is need­ed:

  1. — this is water, and since air con­di­tion­ers are com­plex electro­mechan­i­cal devices, water can cause their pre­ma­ture fail­ure.
  2. Up to 20 liters or more of atmos­pher­ic liq­uid can flow from one unit per day — with a large num­ber of devices in the build­ing, you can eas­i­ly col­lect a whole ton. Such a vol­ume can already be called the risk of flood­ing the base­ment floors.
  3. Stag­nant water is an excel­lent hid­ing place for the devel­op­ment of mold, bac­te­ria and oth­er pathogens.

Even these three argu­ments are enough to make sure the imple­men­ta­tion is nec­es­sary. The main pur­pose of such a sys­tem is to remove excess mois­ture out­side the premis­es.

Health impact

The main dan­ger of clog­ging the drainage is not the con­se­quences of flood­ing the neigh­bors or the break­down of an expen­sive device, but the threat to the life and health of the inhab­i­tants of the cool room. If there is dirt, water and heat, then this auto­mat­i­cal­ly cre­ates the risk of cre­at­ing a whole incu­ba­tor of var­i­ous infec­tions in the split sys­tem:Dirt in the drain pipe

  • Molds. Some strains can cause res­pi­ra­to­ry dis­eases up to lung can­cer.
  • bac­te­ria. There is a spe­cif­ic vari­ety that caus­es Legion­naires’ Dis­ease, a bac­te­r­i­al inflam­ma­tion of the lungs. At the same time, the mor­tal­i­ty rate is very high.
  • Bad smell the least of the pos­si­ble evils. At the same time, it serves as a kind of last warn­ing — it’s time to clean the drainage.

How to get rid of condensation

  1. The most com­mon and cost effec­tive, but not the best and most cor­rect, way is to sim­ply lead the drain pipe out of the win­dow through a hole in the wall. The advan­tages are obvi­ous — I drilled a hole, laid a hose and you’re done. The neg­a­tive sides are the effect of “rain­drops” that drum on the win­dowsills, and the greater the height, the loud­er the knock. Such a deci­sion is fraught with a show­down with an angry neigh­bor who is pre­vent­ed from sleep­ing by your “drum set”. The aes­thet­ic side of the imple­men­ta­tion should also be writ­ten down in the minus­es — the pipes hang­ing on the wall do not at all add beau­ty to the inte­ri­or of the room.

    On a note. Mod­ern edi­tions of SNiP and San­PiN pro­hib­it the with­draw­al of runoff through the wall. Crash­ing into a storm drain is also pro­hib­it­ed — dur­ing heavy rain­fall, the pres­sure in the storm drain will be so strong that the room will be flood­ed with a reverse flow of water from the LC. This hap­pens when the LC can­not cope with the flow of rain and is com­plete­ly filled along its entire length — then the pres­sure in it reach­es its max­i­mum val­ue.

  2. Much more com­pe­tent will be the dis­charge of con­den­sate from the air con­di­tion­er into the sew­er.

    Drainage into the sewer systemIn this option, the dis­ad­van­tages of the first method are solved — the waste from the oper­a­tion of the unit is merged into a net­work spe­cial­ly designed for this. This can either be the gen­er­al sew­er­age sys­tem of the build­ing or a spe­cial­ly laid pipe net­work. Drainage is car­ried out either by grav­i­ty, due to the neg­a­tive slope of the pipes, or with the help of a pump.

    It is worth pay­ing atten­tion to some nuances when imple­ment­ing a dis­charge into the gen­er­al sew­er:

    • To pre­vent the pen­e­tra­tion of unpleas­ant odors from the pipe into the room, it is nec­es­sary to install a water seal — a part of the drainage pipe curved in the form of the Eng­lish let­ter S. The water that will remain in the low­er knee will cre­ate an insur­mount­able bar­ri­er to the “aro­mas from below”.
    • In the hot sea­son and with pro­longed down­time of air con­di­tion­ers, the water seal may dry out and the air will begin to “smell”. To elim­i­nate such a nui­sance, it is enough to pour a cou­ple of liters of water into the drain.
    • If grav­i­ty is used, then be sure to cal­cu­late the min­i­mum required diam­e­ter and slope of the sys­tem so that all con­den­sate flows freely along it.

which use part of the con­densed mois­ture to main­tain the bal­ance of air humid­i­ty by evap­o­rat­ing the liq­uid in the heater.

It should not be for­got­ten that the pre­ven­tion of the drain sys­tem should be car­ried out at least once every three months. Even if the air con­di­tion­er did not work all this time, noth­ing pre­vent­ed dirt from accu­mu­lat­ing and path­o­gen­ic organ­isms from devel­op­ing in all its nooks and cran­nies.

Self-maintenance of the drainage system

How to get rid of condensation

To blow out the drain hose and not resort to an expen­sive call ser­vice, you will need three things:

  1. A wish. And it will def­i­nite­ly appear after the room starts to smell very unpleas­ant.
  2. Tools. Screw­drivers, pli­ers and a knife are usu­al­ly enough to dis­man­tle the hous­ing cov­er, pipe clamp and mount­ing screws.
  3. Dis­in­fec­tant. It will help to get rid of hard-to-remove plaque on the walls and in places of bends. The best results are shown by con­cen­trat­ed chlo­rine-con­tain­ing prepa­ra­tions for the dirt­i­est sur­faces.

To car­ry out clean­ing, you will only need to remove the top cov­er of the device, dis­con­nect the tube and blow strong­ly into it with your mouth. If the instal­la­tion was done cor­rect­ly and there is no kink on the pipe, then all the accu­mu­lat­ed dirt will fly out from the oppo­site end. After that, it is nec­es­sary to fill in the dis­in­fec­tant there and let it work with the inter­nal sur­faces for about twen­ty min­utes. After the spec­i­fied time, sim­ply rinse the tube with clean water and assem­ble every­thing back, fol­low­ing the assem­bly sequence.

Please note that this is an incom­plete set of hygiene mea­sures that must be car­ried out quar­ter­ly.

Tips & Tricks

Unsafe mounting

  • It’s bet­ter to do it right now than to redo it lat­er. It all depends on the installers who will install it. The degree of pro­fes­sion­al­ism can be judged by the equip­ment of the brigade. If they are dressed in over­alls, use per­son­al pro­tec­tive equip­ment, then we can say with a high degree of con­fi­dence that they are pro­fes­sion­als and know the intri­ca­cies of the work.
  • In the event of a prob­lem on the equip­ment already put into oper­a­tion, it makes sense to invite a spe­cial­ized orga­ni­za­tion. It is unlike­ly that any­one at home will find a high-pres­sure com­pres­sor and pow­er­ful chem­i­cals, so to speak, “in reserve” — they cost a lot of mon­ey and are sold, most often, in kilo­grams, with a con­sump­tion of 100 grams per clean­ing.
  • In addi­tion to clean­ing the drain, it is also nec­es­sary to clean the air fil­ters, impeller, out­door unit, etc. For this pro­ce­dure, Karcher brand clean­ing units are used. You can do it your­self, but it will take sev­er­al days for an unpre­pared per­son.

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