Have you become the own­er of an apart­ment in a new build­ing, but your hap­pi­ness has been over­shad­owed by a num­ber of prob­lems? The house is still damp, unheat­ed, and not all apart­ments are occu­pied. Hence the cold­ness, gen­er­al damp­ness and increased humid­i­ty in the rooms. Most often, the apart­ment is still wait­ing for the turn of past­ing rooms with wall­pa­per or paint­ing the walls and ceil­ing, lay­ing coat­ings on the floor and oth­er fin­ish­ing works. In addi­tion, the heat­ing may not work yet: it is not the sea­son or the autonomous sys­tem has not yet been installed. And I want to do all the work faster and with the high­est qual­i­ty.

How to reduce humid­i­ty in a new apart­ment, how to elim­i­nate humid­i­ty in a new build­ing and avoid the appear­ance of mold and fun­gus, you will find answers to these and oth­er ques­tions in our arti­cle.

Causes of high humidity

1. The build­ing was put into oper­a­tion recent­ly, the dry­ing of the build­ing was either not car­ried out or was not com­plet­ed com­plete­ly. If the weath­er was unlucky dur­ing con­struc­tion, the mois­ture absorbed by the build­ing mate­ri­als and struc­tures did not escape through nat­ur­al ven­ti­la­tion. To remove it, you need either to dry the build­ing with ven­ti­la­tion or indus­tri­al dehu­mid­i­fiers. We com­pare the amount of mois­ture that can be retained and removed dur­ing dry­ing from dif­fer­ent build­ing mate­ri­als.

The total amount of mois­ture in the build­ing struc­ture rep­re­sents sol­id num­bers, and it takes time or effi­cient equip­ment to remove excess mois­ture. Insuf­fi­cient dry­ing of the build­ing threat­ens with high ini­tial costs for heat­ing the house. There­fore, we advise you to read the arti­cle, which describes in detail the dry­ing of con­crete floors and slabs. In it, we paid atten­tion to all the main points and offered answers to ques­tions. For exam­ple, how to dry con­crete so that cracks and oth­er dam­age do not occur lat­er.

2. In a new build­ing, it is nec­es­sary to con­trol the dry­ing of inter­wall seams, plas­ter, screeds, as well as the pres­ence of cold bridges near win­dows and doors. If the thick­ness of the walls is insuf­fi­cient, or the house is not insu­lat­ed and heat­ed, cor­ner rooms, rooms on the low­er or upper floors with poor heat/water insu­la­tion suf­fer the most from damp­ness.

3. Fin­ish­ing works relat­ed to excess humid­i­ty have been start­ed in the under-dried rooms: wall­pa­per takes a long time to dry, white­wash does too, these types of works “don’t like” ven­ti­la­tion. Ceil­ing paint­ing and tiling also require more dry­ing time than in an old­er home. Rel­a­tive humid­i­ty after repair itself def­i­nite­ly exceeds the per­mis­si­ble lim­its, because glues, paints and mix­tures are dilut­ed in more than one buck­et of water.

4. Insuf­fi­cient ven­ti­la­tion affects the increase in humid­i­ty in the apart­ment. Plas­tic win­dows and blind doors with­out inlet slits or holes inter­fere with air cir­cu­la­tion, the air is stale and stag­nant, ide­al con­di­tions are cre­at­ed for the appear­ance of mold on the walls and in the cor­ners. Mold on the base­boards in a new house indi­cates exces­sive air humid­i­ty, so it is nec­es­sary to take mea­sures urgent­ly.

If even now there is no mold yet, then it is not exclud­ed that it can “attack” the walls and ceil­ing of your house already when the repairs were made or even the walls were dried in the new build­ing before the repairs. A num­ber of oth­er fac­tors that can lead to the appear­ance of mold should be con­sid­ered. As they say, one who is famil­iar with a pos­si­ble prob­lem is armed. There­fore, we advise you to imme­di­ate­ly take into account all fac­tors of the appear­ance of mold, and meth­ods of com­bat­ing it at var­i­ous stages of cre­at­ing cozi­ness in the apart­ment — from the stage of “bare” walls to the com­plet­ed stage of design dec­o­ra­tion of rooms. More about this is told in the arti­cle “How to prop­er­ly dry plas­ter dur­ing repair”.

How to reduce humidity in the apartment?

In the sum­mer and in the off-sea­son, due to increased air exchange, warm, humid­i­fied air will go into the exhaust ducts of the ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem (or sim­ply out­side through the win­dows) and will be replaced by fresh air with less humid­i­ty.

In addi­tion to ven­ti­la­tion at any time of the year, installing an air con­di­tion­er that has the func­tion of dehu­mid­i­fy­ing the air can help. Such equip­ment grad­u­al­ly reduces the lev­el of humid­i­ty, if it does not exceed the norm by 5–10%.

If the humid­i­ty lev­el is very high — above 80–90%, builders often use heat guns (gas, diesel or elec­tric) or fan heaters. Rapid heat­ing and mix­ing of air con­tributes to inten­sive evap­o­ra­tion of mois­ture from the sur­face lay­ers of the walls, floor and ceil­ing. Peri­od­ic ven­ti­la­tion or air­ing will help to remove humid­i­fied air out­side the build­ing. The use of such air heaters in wet rainy weath­er is not very effec­tive, because the atmos­pher­ic air is also humid. It is nec­es­sary to work with such units very care­ful­ly. Direct­ed air flow can over­heat the sur­face in places, overdry­ing leads to crack­ing of dec­o­ra­tive coat­ings and dete­ri­o­ra­tion of mois­ture removal from the depth of the screed or plas­ter.

How to determine the source of the problem

Where excess mois­ture enters the apart­ment can be deter­mined by a folk method: put a mir­ror or a piece of glass to the sur­face of the wall and hold it for a while. If the sur­face fogs up, it means that part of the mois­ture is pass­ing through the wall, and the wall needs to be insu­lat­ed. If the glass is dry, the source of mois­ture should be sought indoors. But it is bet­ter to use a wall or room ther­mo­hy­grom­e­ter to mea­sure the humid­i­ty lev­el.

The accept­able “healthy” lev­el of humid­i­ty is 45–55%, at this lev­el of humid­i­ty, mold and fun­gus can­not devel­op.

Damp­ness in a new apart­ment can lead to unde­sir­able con­se­quences. Its sources are dif­fer­ent, and the meth­ods of strug­gle must be cho­sen accord­ing­ly:

  • If the win­dows fog up and mold appears in the cor­ners of the win­dow frames, it is worth ther­mal­ly insu­lat­ing and fill­ing the slopes, installing triple pack­ages of win­dow glass.
  • If mold has appeared in the bath­room, urgent­ly check the con­di­tion of the exhaust ven­ti­la­tion and think about the pres­ence of holes or cracks in the door. You can install an exhaust fan.
  • If a cor­ner room is affect­ed, it is nec­es­sary to improve the ven­ti­la­tion there and increase the pow­er of the heat­ing radi­a­tor.
  • If mold appears in or on base­boards, you should wor­ry about a damp or flood­ed base­ment, repair a pipe break, or drain the base­ment. Per­haps it is worth insu­lat­ing the floor and strength­en­ing the ther­mal insu­la­tion from the low­er floor.
  • The appear­ance of mold in the cor­ners of the ceil­ing — most like­ly, the attic space is not insu­lat­ed, the roof is leak­ing some­where, the drain is clogged, or there is stag­na­tion of raw air due to cold and poor ven­ti­la­tion in the rooms on the upper floor of the house. The deci­sion regard­ing the ther­mal insu­la­tion of the roof should be made com­pre­hen­sive­ly, for the entire house.

Drying of walls in a new building

Dampness in a new building — consequences

How to deal with mois­ture in a new build­ing? The task — what and how to dry an apart­ment in a new build­ing — is solved depend­ing on the spe­cif­ic con­di­tions of the apart­ment and the lev­el of humid­i­ty in it. Of course, every­one who has been engaged in repair or fin­ish­ing works has felt suf­fo­ca­tion and damp air after white­wash­ing, past­ing wall­pa­per or after lay­ing tiles. You can more accu­rate­ly mea­sure the lev­el of humid­i­ty with the help of a room hygrom­e­ter, and an indi­ca­tor of more than 60% RH should be a con­cern, espe­cial­ly if the humid­i­ty does not decrease for sev­er­al days due to ven­ti­la­tion in the apart­ment.

Wet walls in a new house

Improp­er or insuf­fi­cient dry­ing of the build­ing and accu­mu­lat­ed addi­tion­al mois­ture after repair work is already a sig­nif­i­cant threat to health, dec­o­ra­tion of the apart­ment and the impos­si­bil­i­ty of mov­ing into it as soon as pos­si­ble. Past­ing wall­pa­per on raw walls will not be of high qual­i­ty. Accu­mu­lat­ed mois­ture in the walls will begin to appear in spots and lead to peel­ing of the wall­pa­per. The same applies to paint­ing or white­wash­ing the ceil­ing or walls over raw plas­ter or put­ty.

We will not cause neg­a­tive emo­tions by describ­ing the dam­age caused by fun­gus and mold colonies in res­i­den­tial premis­es, but we will remind you of the con­se­quences. Aller­gies, lung dis­eases, breath­ing prob­lems and oth­er neg­a­tive con­se­quences of exces­sive humid­i­ty pose a threat to the health of house­hold mem­bers, espe­cial­ly the younger gen­er­a­tion. Dam­age to coat­ings, fur­nish­ings in the house, pen­e­tra­tion into walls or dam­age to the entire thick­ness of the wall or floor is already a seri­ous task that will require con­sid­er­able effort. There­fore, it is bet­ter to pre­vent the devel­op­ment of mold than to fight it hero­ical­ly.

That is why you should first dry the apart­ment, then make grad­ual repairs and fin­ish­ing, with peri­od­ic dry­ing after reg­u­lar fin­ish­ing works. And only after that arrange a fun house­warm­ing par­ty.

Dehumidifier for drying a new apartment

The use of an air dehu­mid­i­fi­er is ide­al for a grad­ual and adjustable decrease in the lev­el of humid­i­ty in a ren­o­vat­ed or own­er-occu­pied apart­ment after con­struc­tion. Grad­u­al­ly, peri­od­i­cal­ly set­ting a low­er lev­el of humid­i­ty for a con­tin­u­ous­ly oper­at­ing dehu­mid­i­fi­er, the air is dried with­out jumps and tem­per­a­ture drops. At the same time, con­stant ven­ti­la­tion or active ven­ti­la­tion is not required, the rooms can be dried one by one or by the total vol­ume. It is impos­si­ble to allow exter­nal moist air to enter the room being dehu­mid­i­fied. This speeds up the dry­ing process and pre­serves the entire struc­ture of coat­ings and fin­ish­es.

The walls, floor and ceil­ing are dried to a con­sid­er­able depth. Mois­ture is extract­ed from the entire vol­ume of air, due to the sup­ply of dried air by the fan, high-qual­i­ty air cir­cu­la­tion with­out stag­nant places is ensured. Not only the apart­ment or a sep­a­rate room is dried, but also the fur­ni­ture and objects in it. The most impor­tant thing is that the dry­ing process is con­trolled, the dry­ing of the sur­faces and deep lay­ers is accel­er­at­ed, the humid­i­ty grad­u­al­ly decreas­es to the required 45–55% and is con­stant­ly main­tained at this lev­el. Healthy air in the apart­ment is pro­vid­ed.

Mod­ern dehu­mid­i­fiers not only dry, but also clean and dis­in­fect the air. Con­den­sate is divert­ed to a tank or drained into the sew­er. Dehu­mid­i­fi­ca­tion con­sumes much less elec­tric­i­ty than dur­ing the oper­a­tion of heat guns. Works can be car­ried out with­out heat­ing and in the cold sea­son. Adsorp­tion dehu­mid­i­fiers are well suit­ed for oper­a­tion in the cold sea­son.

Examples of dehumidifiers for apartments, offices and private houses with an area of ​​25–50 m²


Type of dehu­mid­i­fi­er:
Ballu BDH-25L


25 L
50 m2

More details
Buy in one click

9 111UAH

Coop­er & Hunter
Type of dehu­mid­i­fi­er:
Cooper&Hunter CH-D005WD2-12LD
12 L
25 m2

More details
Buy in one click


Type of dehu­mid­i­fi­er:


10 L
15 m2

More details
Buy in one click


Yugo Smart 16
Type of dehu­mid­i­fi­er:
MYCOND Yugo Smart 16


16 L
35 m2

More details
Buy in one click


Berg 25
Type of dehu­mid­i­fi­er:
MYCOND Berg 25


25 L
51 m2

More details
Buy in one click

A high-qual­i­ty and reli­able helper in the home and house­hold — the MYCOND Berg 25 dehu­mid­i­fi­er has excel­lent per­for­mance up to 25 l/day, very eco­nom­i­cal ener­gy con­sump­tion for its per­for­mance — max. 0.425 kW. Silent oper­a­tion in all modes, unique fil­tra­tion sys­tem: HEPA fil­ter, plas­ma air purifi­ca­tion. A sep­a­rate sec­tion for arom­a­ti­za­tion that will fill the house with a pleas­ant smell, con­ve­nient WI-FI con­trol and many oth­er use­ful func­tions that will allow you to con­trol the dehu­mid­i­fi­er com­fort­ably and pro­vide a favor­able micro­cli­mate.

The reli­able house­hold dehu­mid­i­fi­er TCL DEVA 10EB is even more eco­nom­i­cal in terms of ener­gy con­sump­tion — only 0.290 kW, and this is with the abil­i­ty to remove up to 10 liters of con­den­sate per day. In addi­tion to advanced con­trol automa­tion, the unit can be con­nect­ed to drainage. It is an indis­pens­able assis­tant for repairs, laun­dry, in the bath­room, in the laun­dry or in the base­ment.

The air dry­er from the well-known Amer­i­can brand Cooper&Hunter CH-D005WD2-12LD can work with high or low per­for­mance, col­lect con­den­sate in a tank or drain it, work in con­tin­u­ous or auto­mat­ic mode with humid­i­ty lev­el con­trol. Works suc­cess­ful­ly in con­di­tions from +5°C to +35°C.

New prod­uct of British ori­gin MYCOND Yugo Smart 16. The mod­el is made in an ele­gant design with a large LCD dis­play. This mod­el has extend­ed func­tion­al­i­ty, which allows you to use the dehu­mid­i­fi­er in rooms, chil­dren’s bed­rooms and be con­trolled via Wi-Fi from neigh­bor­ing premis­es. The dehu­mid­i­fi­er works in the tem­per­a­ture range from +5°C to +35°C. It is famous for its silent oper­a­tion.

There is also a Bal­lu BDH-25L dehu­mid­i­fi­er that is eas­i­er to set up and oper­ate, it is able to eas­i­ly work in large rooms and remove up to 25 liters of con­den­sate per day, while con­sum­ing only up to 0.340 kW. It has a 6.5‑liter con­den­sate col­lec­tion tank with a fill indi­ca­tor, as well as a touch con­trol pan­el. Suit­able for base­ments, small ware­hous­es, cor­ri­dors and at the con­struc­tion stage.

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We hope that we have sug­gest­ed the cor­rect way to dry an apart­ment in a new build­ing com­pe­tent­ly and with the low­est costs. And most impor­tant­ly, to con­tin­ue to main­tain the most com­fort­able and healthy con­di­tions in it. Even if you are ren­o­vat­ing a new build­ing with damp walls, an air dehu­mid­i­fi­er will help you as much as pos­si­ble in high-qual­i­ty dehu­mid­i­fi­ca­tion of the apart­ment and in the sub­se­quent fin­ish­ing works. You will sig­nif­i­cant­ly reduce the time of work and save on repair costs. This is a reli­able mod­ern cli­mate equip­ment that will often help you get rid of excess mois­ture in the bath­room, laun­dry room or base­ment.

Other useful articles:

How to dry walls and con­crete floors after a flood or water leak

How to prop­er­ly dry the plas­ter dur­ing the repair process

Increased humid­i­ty in the house: meth­ods of strug­gle

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