The impor­tance of choos­ing the right boil­er room for a pri­vate house can hard­ly be over­es­ti­mat­ed. Draw­ing a com­par­a­tive par­al­lel with the human body, the boil­er room can be safe­ly called the heart of the whole struc­ture. If ini­tial­ly, the “heart” is use­less, the func­tion­ing of the oth­er “organs” also leaves much to be desired.

With the wrong choice of equip­ment, the oper­a­tion of heat­ing and water sup­ply sys­tems in the future becomes dif­fi­cult, and to put it mild­ly, does not bring plea­sure. When choos­ing a boil­er room, it is nec­es­sary to work out sev­er­al fun­da­men­tal issues.

  • Fuel

    • gas

    • liq­uid fuel

    • elec­tric­i­ty

    • sol­id fuel

  • Oth­er fac­tors

  • Instruc­tions for installing heat­ing gas equip­ment

So, the first thing you need to decide is fuel. The most com­mon types of fuel in our coun­try are sol­id fuels (wood, coal, peat, etc., up to dried manure), gas (usu­al­ly nat­ur­al), liq­uid fuels (most often diesel fuel), elec­tric­i­ty.

It is best, of course, to use gas. It is rel­a­tive­ly cheap, it does not need to be con­stant­ly brought to the place of con­sump­tion, its com­bus­tion prod­ucts are the most envi­ron­men­tal­ly friend­ly, lit­tle soot remains dur­ing com­bus­tion (the chim­ney and boil­er need to be cleaned less often), etc. A sig­nif­i­cant com­pli­ca­tion is the sup­ply of a gas pipeline to the house. The fact that some kind of “gas” pipe runs near your site does not mean at all that you can con­nect to it. If the con­nec­tion, in prin­ci­ple, is pos­si­ble, then you will have to com­mu­ni­cate close­ly with rep­re­sen­ta­tives of the local gas trust, draw up a lot of doc­u­ments, per­mits, agree­ments, and, of course, pay a cer­tain amount. On aver­age, accord­ing to our obser­va­tions, the cost of gas sup­ply fluc­tu­ates around 3–4 thou­sand US dol­lars, in time it can take up to 1–2 years.

Thermoblock gas street TGU-NORD 240m

Ther­moblock gas street TGU-NORD 240m

Some mis­con­cep­tions that usu­al­ly arise when choos­ing this type of fuel. The first is the fear that there may be inter­rup­tions in the sup­ply of gas (acci­dents or shut­downs). Acci­dents are an emer­gency, this hap­pens extreme­ly rarely, and we can­not remem­ber at least one such case in five years of work. You, as a con­sumer, can be dis­con­nect­ed only for non-pay­ment for the ser­vices of the local gas econ­o­my, hav­ing pre­vi­ous­ly warned, with the exe­cu­tion of all doc­u­ments nec­es­sary for the com­mis­sion of such an act.

The sec­ond is the poten­tial dan­ger of using this type of fuel. How­ev­er, the require­ments for the instal­la­tion of any gas-pow­ered appli­ances are so high that when using high-qual­i­ty equip­ment and ser­vices of licensed orga­ni­za­tions, the risk is min­i­mized. Usu­al­ly, acci­dents asso­ci­at­ed with the use of gas (fires or explo­sions) occur only in case of gross vio­la­tions of the rules of Gos­gortekhnad­zor.

Popular Models

Boil­er gas Beretta 28 CSI

Gas boil­ers with steel heat exchang­er Conord 10S

Gas boil­er Camus hydron­ics BFH 0480

Gas boil­ers: all mod­els

For heat­ing liq­uid fuel No approval from any orga­ni­za­tion is required. The main task is the time­ly deliv­ery of diesel fuel. By the way, when plan­ning the site, in this case, it is nec­es­sary to pro­vide for the pos­si­bil­i­ty of a tanker approach­ing the fuel tanks, and when build­ing a house, pro­vide a place for the tanks and the pos­si­bil­i­ty of their deliv­ery to the premis­es. The larg­er the tanks, the less fre­quent­ly you fill them up. It is a mis­con­cep­tion that diesel fuel com­bus­tion prod­ucts are harm­ful; with a well-adjust­ed boil­er burn­er, you will prac­ti­cal­ly not see smoke. But still, once a year you will have to clean the chim­ney and the boil­er itself from soot. Fuel con­sump­tion is approx­i­mate­ly 1 liter per 10 kW of heat out­put. Remem­ber that for the smooth func­tion­ing of a diesel boil­er, the qual­i­ty of the fuel is of great impor­tance.

Popular Models

Low tem­per­a­ture boil­er Viess­mann 100 15

Gas-tube two-way hot water boil­ers GK Nord 75 kW

Hot water boil­er Euronord K150

Boil­ers for liq­uid fuel and gas: all mod­els

Heat­ing elec­tric­i­ty gen­er­al­ly envi­ron­men­tal­ly friend­ly. All that is required is to obtain per­mis­sion from the dis­trict pow­er author­i­ty to con­nect. In the case of a sin­gle-phase net­work, every­thing is very sim­ple, in the case of a three-phase net­work, doc­u­ments will have to be drawn up for a long time. Every­one knows the price of elec­tric­i­ty.

By the way, pri­vate con­sumers will soon be giv­en the oppor­tu­ni­ty to use the “dou­ble” tar­iff, i. the dai­ly cost of elec­tric­i­ty is dif­fer­ent from the night (cheap­er at night). This will no doubt encour­age the use of mul­ti­ple fuels, eg diesel dur­ing the day and elec­tric­i­ty at night.

Popular Models

Elec­tric boil­er Tenko 12

Elec­tric boil­er Sev­eryanin 3 kW

Elec­tric boil­er Kospel 36

Elec­tric boil­ers: all mod­els

Heat­ing sol­id fuel the cheap­est, but at the same time the most prob­lem­at­ic. It is nec­es­sary to heat the boil­er more or less con­stant­ly and man­u­al­ly, more­over, it is more dif­fi­cult to with­stand tem­per­a­ture para­me­ters, fuel reserves must be stored some­where and con­stant­ly replen­ished. Remem­ber that you will not be able to ensure the oper­a­tion of the boil­er in your absence, at night you will also have to get up from time to time and throw fire­wood. The fre­quen­cy of lay­ing fire­wood, by the way, depends on the oper­a­tion of the boil­er automa­tion, if any, but more on that lat­er. You will have to clean the boil­er and chim­ney often. This type of fuel is suit­able, in our opin­ion, as a spare, or in com­bi­na­tion with oth­er fuels, for exam­ple, with elec­tric­i­ty.

Popular Models

Sol­id fuel boil­er Beretta 17

Wood burn­ing boil­er with top com­bus­tion Jaspi 40 YPV / 40 Stok­er

Sol­id fuel boil­ers Evan TT-18K

Sol­id fuel boil­ers: all mod­els

In any case, the choice of the type of fuel is dic­tat­ed by the con­di­tions of the giv­en area, some­where it is cheap­er to heat with gas, some­where the only fuel is fire­wood. It should be not­ed that not only the choice of the type of fuel, but also the heat­ing scheme depends on local char­ac­ter­is­tics. All boil­er automa­tion and pumps run on elec­tric­i­ty, and if you have con­stant inter­rup­tions, then choose a scheme with nat­ur­al cir­cu­la­tion, about it a lit­tle lat­er.

An impor­tant step towards choos­ing the type of fuel is the choice of heat­ing mode. If you’re build­ing an occa­sion­al house with inex­pen­sive wood­work, you can use sol­id fuel and fire the boil­er only dur­ing vis­its. In this case, it is nec­es­sary to pro­vide for the pos­si­bil­i­ty of drain­ing water from water sup­ply and sewage sys­tems, as well as to aban­don expen­sive fin­ish­es, oth­er­wise con­stant tem­per­a­ture changes and the result­ing con­den­sate will seri­ous­ly spoil the appear­ance of ceil­ings and walls. In the case of liq­uid fuel, gas and elec­tric­i­ty, in order to save mon­ey, you can use pro­gram­ma­ble heat­ing modes, for exam­ple, the tem­per­a­ture of + 5–10ºС is main­tained in the house all week, by the time you arrive, the boil­er heats the house up to + 20ºС or any tem­per­a­ture you set.

Choos­ing a boil­er room for a pri­vate house ✮A large selec­tion of boil­ers and heat­ing boil­ers on the por­tal

Remem­ber that in advance and cor­rect­ly cho­sen heat­ing method will sig­nif­i­cant­ly save your mon­ey and effort.

Regard­less of the type of fuel, when choos­ing a boil­er, sev­er­al gen­er­al fac­tors must be con­sid­ered.

The first is how often you expect to change it. Cheap boil­ers do not last long, usu­al­ly the fire­box burns out quick­ly and after that the boil­er can only be thrown away. The fur­nace is the main ele­ment of the boil­er. The dura­bil­i­ty of the boil­er and its effi­cien­cy depend on the qual­i­ty and design of the fur­nace. An expen­sive boil­er will serve you for 25–30 years, or even more, the effi­cien­cy of such boil­ers is about 94%.

The sec­ond is what lev­el of automa­tion you can afford, the price and ease of use depend very much on it. If you agree to set the tem­per­a­ture in the house man­u­al­ly by adjust­ing the ther­mal heads, then you’d bet­ter buy a good boil­er with sim­ple automa­tion, it’s not expen­sive. If the con­ve­nience of con­trol­ling equip­ment is impor­tant to you, then you should pay atten­tion to more expen­sive automa­tion. In any case, ask the sell­er to tell you in detail about the pro­posed automa­tion, a lot real­ly depends on it, includ­ing safe­ty. The remain­ing ele­ments of the boil­er room — pumps, expan­sion tanks, fit­tings, pip­ing — are almost stan­dard for all sup­pli­ers.

Popular Models

Refrig­er­a­tion con­trollers Carel ir33

Tem­per­a­ture con­trol device Aries UKT38-Sch4

Automa­tion for air cur­tains Veza

Con­trollers: all mod­els

Pay spe­cial atten­tion to the burn­er pro­posed for use with this boil­er. The burn­er is per­haps the most com­plex device in the boil­er, and the unin­ter­rupt­ed oper­a­tion of the boil­er in all modes, as well as effi­cien­cy, depend on it. On boil­ers oper­at­ing with gaseous fuels, two types of burn­ers are usu­al­ly installed: atmos­pher­ic, where the process of mix­ing gas with air occurs nat­u­ral­ly, or fan (blow­ing), in which mechan­i­cal mix­ing of gas from air under pres­sure takes place, and this mix­ture is sup­plied to the fur­nace. Both burn­ers have their mer­its. The atmos­pher­ic burn­er is devoid of mechan­i­cal parts, so its ser­vice life, the­o­ret­i­cal­ly, is longer.

The blow­er burn­er is more eco­nom­i­cal and less sus­cep­ti­ble to a drop in gas pres­sure in the sup­ply gas pipeline. All boil­ers oper­at­ing on liq­uid fuels are equipped with blast burn­ers, since diesel fuel ignites and burns only in a cer­tain, pro­por­tion­al mix­ture of air and fuel. In the case of an oil-fired boil­er, the qual­i­ty of the fuel is very impor­tant. The use of poor qual­i­ty fuel will lead to inter­rup­tions in the oper­a­tion of the boil­er, its clog­ging with soot, and fail­ure of the burn­er noz­zles. There­fore, try not to save on fil­ters and avoid low-qual­i­ty diesel fuel.

When pur­chas­ing an elec­tric boil­er, which is essen­tial­ly a con­tain­er with Ther­mal Elec­tric Heaters (heaters), pay atten­tion to the qual­i­ty of the elec­tri­cal devices installed in it. Expen­sive boil­ers, as a rule, are equipped with high-qual­i­ty starters with spark arresters, equipped with reli­able safe­ty automa­tion. In cheap boil­ers, heat­ing ele­ments burn out more often, pro­tec­tion is worse thought out.

Sol­id fuel boil­ers, in most cas­es, are ini­tial­ly com­bined. In such a boil­er, there are two fire­box­es, one works with sol­id fuel, and the oth­er with liq­uid or gas. Due to the fact that sol­id fuel is dif­fi­cult to dose, care­ful­ly con­sid­er the safe­ty equip­ment and automa­tion sys­tem of the boil­er you choose.

In any case, do not skimp on the boil­er. Hav­ing bought good equip­ment, you will pro­vide your­self with peace of mind, safe­ty and com­fort.

Instruc­tions for installing heat­ing gas equip­ment

1. The place­ment of ther­mal units is pro­vid­ed for:

  • in the kitchen with the pow­er of the heat­ing unit for heat­ing up to 60 kW inclu­sive, regard­less of the pres­ence of a gas stove and a gas water heater;

  • in a sep­a­rate room on any floor (includ­ing in the base­ment or base­ment) with their total capac­i­ty for heat­ing and hot water sys­tems up to 150 kW inclu­sive;

  • in a sep­a­rate room on the first, base­ment or base­ment floor, as well as in a room attached to a res­i­den­tial build­ing with their total pow­er for the heat­ing and hot water sup­ply sys­tem up to 500 kW inclu­sive.

2. When placed in the kitchen — the room must meet the fol­low­ing require­ments:

  • ceil­ing height of at least 2 meters;

  • the vol­ume of the room is not less than 7.5 cubic meters. m plus 0.2 cubic meters. m per 1 kW of pow­er of the ther­mal unit for heat­ing;

  • in the kitchen, ven­ti­la­tion should be pro­vid­ed on the basis of: exhaust in the amount of 3 times the air exchange of the room per hour, inflow in the vol­ume of the extract plus the amount of air for gas com­bus­tion;

  • the kitchen should have a win­dow with a win­dow. for air inflow, a grate or a gap with a free area of ​​at least 0.025 sq. m.

3. When placed in a sep­a­rate room locat­ed on any floor of a res­i­den­tial build­ing, with a total pow­er of up to 150 kW, the room must meet the fol­low­ing require­ments:

  • ceil­ing height of at least 2 meters;

  • the vol­ume and area of ​​the premis­es from the con­di­tions of con­ve­nient main­te­nance of ther­mal units and aux­il­iary equip­ment, but not less than 7.5 cubic meters. m;

  • the room must be sep­a­rat­ed from adja­cent rooms by enclos­ing walls with a fire resis­tance lim­it of 0.75 hours, and the lim­it of fire prop­a­ga­tion along the struc­ture is zero;

  • nat­ur­al light­ing at the rate of 0.03 sq. m per 1 cu. m of premis­es;

  • ven­ti­la­tion should be pro­vid­ed in the room on the basis of: exhaust in the amount of 3 times the air exchange of the room per hour, inflow in the vol­ume of the extract plus the amount of air for gas com­bus­tion;

  • the room should have a door that opens to the street.

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